Travelling across India to meet the remarkable people preserving its handmade traditions.
Chapter IV
Msere – When Wood Met Mumbai in Diezephe
🧭 The Journey Trail
📍 Dimapur Hotel
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🏍️ David’s Bike Taxi
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🏟️ The Unexpected Cricket Stadium
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🏡 Diezephe Village
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🐜 Hornets, Snails, and a Cold Beer
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🪵 The Soul of a Single Log
The girl behind Msere is Maggie.
My partner, Pratikchha, had discovered her on social media, completely fascinated by her range of organic, single-piece wooden kitchenware. If it belongs in a kitchen and it's made of wood, Maggie makes it. If she doesn’t have it, she will create it.
Before leaving Mumbai, Pratikchha handed me Maggie's number. "Call her when you land in her territory", she told me.
So, fresh off my rooftop evening at the Sky Lounge with Joe and Viseino, I pulled out my phone and dropped her a message. She sent over a location that immediately caught my eye: Diezephe Village.
I liked the name the moment I read it. In my head, it instantly triggered a classic rock note. Diezephe... Dee-zeh-peh. It sounded an awful lot like Zeppelin.
The next morning, I called her. No answer. A few minutes later, a text popped up explaining she was at Sunday family service, but that their team member, who ran a local biking service, could pick me up from my hotel at 11:30 a.m.
The price? ₹500 round trip.
Considering Diezephe was a solid 25 kilometers away one way, it was a total steal. Far better than my overpriced auto ride from the other day!By noon, my bike taxi rider, David, pulled up.

The blistering Dimapur heat from my first day had vanished. Either the weather had cooled down, or my Mumbai bones were finally adapting to the mountains😇. Honestly? Who knows, and who cares, as long as the ride is good.
And what a ride it was. A beautiful, breezy Sunday afternoon.
As David navigated the roads, we zipped past the Dimapur airport, the open runway stretching out beside us. Because it was Sunday, the usual traffic was gone. We crossed through Diphupar Village and cruised past the beautiful Angami Baptist Church.
The quiet empty streets gave me a massive wave of nostalgia. It felt exactly like a lazy Sunday afternoon siesta in Goa, just minus the chilled beer.
And then, the road threw me a curveball.
Right there, rising up against the sky, was the Nagaland Cricket Stadium. A full-fledged cricket stadium. In Nagaland! I blinked twice to make sure I wasn’t dreaming. Never in my wildest dreams would I have expected that here.

Next came the entrance to Singri Janokhopanala Village. The massive archway was crowned with giant, crossed Kukri. David told me this is a well-known Gorkha (Nepali) majority village.
The crossed Kukris are more than decoration. For the Gorkha community, the Kukri carries a deep cultural association with strength, courage and protection, so seeing them proudly displayed at the village entrance felt like a fitting welcome.
Eventually, the road meandered through fields, beneath a canopy of shady trees that formed a natural green archway over the asphalt. At the entrance stood a massive archway crowned with giant, crossed blades. David told me they were stylised Naga Dao (the traditional Naga blade). The Dao, once an essential everyday tool and an iconic symbol of Naga warrior tradition, remains a powerful emblem of Naga identity, resilience and pride, a small detail that instantly tells you you’re entering a place deeply rooted in its heritage.
We finally pulled into the village that sounded like Led Zeppelin😊 Diezephe.
As we stopped, a guy stepped out of his car, smiled, and walked straight toward me.
"I'm Joel," he said, introducing himself as Maggie's husband and business partner. Then, he looked at me and casually dropped: "Kasa haise tu?"
Time out.
That is literal Marathi for "How are you?"

I stood there in complete shock. Of all the places, I never expected to bump into a guy speaking fluent Marathi on the easternmost edge of our country.
We walked into their home, met Maggie, and within seconds, she handed me a cold pint of beer. "We kept this for you," she smiled.
Talk about serendipity! I had literally just been daydreaming about a cold beer while passing the church.
Before I could even think about business, their two tiny Chihuahuas, Jerry and Sophie, came bounding over to say hello.
"It's lunch time, you must be starving," Maggie said.
What followed was an absolute culinary adventure. Starters began rolling out of the kitchen one after the other: wild geese, local snails, and... hornets.




Yes, hornets. And let me tell you, I absolutely loved it. The marination, the distinct smoky flavours, and the sheer uniqueness of the execution were mind-blowing. The mains were kept beautifully simple: dal, rice, and a fierce Naga chilli chutney that completely elevated the entire plate.
Joel smiled as he watched me eat. "The native villagers go out into the jungle at night to harvest these hornets straight from the nests," he explained. "If you ordered this in a high-end restaurant, it would easily cost you ₹1,800 a plate. But the villagers came by yesterday asking if we wanted some. Since we knew you were coming, we grabbed them!"
These delicacies are usually reserved for major tribal celebrations and the big festivals in December. I felt incredibly lucky.
With a spectacular meal resting heavily in my stomach, we walked over to their nearby workshop.
The yard was stacked with heavy logs of Gamari (Gmelina), Teak, and Alder, alongside rough-cut blocks of various shapes and sizes. Joel walked me through the entire lifecycle of a wood carving.
It starts with the raw logs. They have to wait for the exact right season before cutting them into sections of 12 to 15 inches. From there, the wood is hand-chopped and shaped.
Every single product is turned from a single piece of wood.



The shape of the log dictates its destiny. Thinner cuts are set aside to become elegant dinner plates. Bigger, thicker sections are carved down into massive salad bowls, rice bowls, or soup dishes.
We walked into the processing area where the rough-cut pieces are smoothed using heavy machinery and specialized hand tools. Shavings and sawdust flew everywhere, though they collect every bit of it for later use.
Because it was Sunday, the local labour workforce was away; in this part of the country, Sunday is strictly a day of rest. But Joel turned on the machines to give me a live demonstration, and I even got to try my own hand at the sanding and smoothing process.
The most beautiful thing about Msere’s woodwork is the absolute purity of the craft.


There are no joints. No attachments. No glue, no chemicals, no gum, and definitely no nails. Just one continuous piece of nature. Joel told me that because of this structural integrity, a single bowl can easily last 30, 40, or even 50 years if properly cared for (which mostly means keeping it out of harsh, direct sunlight).
"But what happens if the raw wood is still wet when you carve it?" I asked.
Maggie walked me over to a dedicated enclosure. "That’s where the smoking zone comes in," she explained.
They place the rough-cut, sanded products inside a specialized room and burn the collected wood shavings and sawdust underneath, creating a basic, controlled barbecue setup. They smoke the wood for 2–3 days. This process completely dries out any hidden moisture, kills microscopic termites invisible to the human eye, adds a gorgeous, deep colour to the grain, and drastically extends the lifespan of the wood.

As the afternoon began to wind down, Joel prepared to head out to his other job, he manages a prominent hospitality club in Dimapur, complete with a restaurant, bar, and karaoke lounge.
On our way back, I finally had to ask the burning question: "How on earth did a Marathi-speaking guy wind up running a wood business in a Nagaland village?"
Joel laughed. Turns out, he’s a Mumbai boy from Vasai, born and raised in Bandra. While pursuing his degree in Hotel Management, he met Maggie.
Winning over her parents in Nagaland wasn't easy for a boy from Bombay, but since he was Catholic, it worked in his favour. He originally moved out here to start a piggery farm, but a surprise call from a friend landed him the management role at the Dimapur club.
Now, life was shifting again. After a few successful years, the club owner had offered Joel a full partnership to launch a brand-new café in Dimapur. On top of that, Maggie was expecting!
With the massive preparation required for a new baby and a bustling new café startup, they realized they couldn't manage both the woodworking facility and the restaurant fronts simultaneously. They were pausing the wood workshop to focus entirely on their new culinary chapter.
I smiled, completely understanding their choice. "Whenever you guys decide to swing those wood lathes back into action," I told them, "Darjeeling Connection will be right here waiting".





Joel dropped me to my hotel as the evening set in, saying 'once you return from Chizami, checkout from your hotel, come to my pub and we will drop you in the night to Diampur Railway Station'.
I packed my bags early that night. My time in the plains of Dimapur was officially over. The next morning required a painfully early wake-up call to catch the single, elusive local jeep that heads high up into the ridges toward Chizami Village.
I couldn't afford to miss it. The mountains are calling and I must go.
🌿 Beyond the Journey
Did you know?
- The Naga Dao: More than just a tool, the Dao has a long, broad blade and a wooden handle often bound with cane. Historically used for everything from clearing jungle tracks and building houses to ancient warfare, it remains a central symbol of tribal identity.
- The Village of Crafts: Diezephe Village is officially recognized as a Handloom and Crafts Village in Nagaland, renowned for its highly skilled wood carvers, bamboo artisans, and weavers.
- The Sunday Rule: Across Nagaland, Sunday is observed with immense cultural reverence. Shops closed, public transport slows down, and communities gather for church services and family lunches, making it a beautiful day of quiet connection.
🎵 Mango's Road Playlist
Every road leaves behind a memory. Every memory finds its song.
Music has always been my travelling companion. These aren't necessarily the songs I was listening to at that moment, they're the ones that capture how this chapter feels whenever I look back on it.
- Led Zeppelin – Ramble On
- A-Ha – Take On Me
- Toto – Africa
- Kansas – Dust in the Wind
- Chicago – Saturday in the Park
- Iron Maiden – Fear of the Dark
- Metallica – Enter Sandman
Next Chapter...
The journey leaves the flat roads behind as we climb deep into the high, misty ridges of the Phek district. In the next chapter, we arrive in Chizami: a revolutionary village where a powerful collective of independent women is transforming community conservation, mastering the back-strap loom, and weaving pieces of their history into the future.
Until the next road,
Mangesh Shinde (Mango)
Co-Founder, Darjeeling Connection