Travelling across the Himalaya & North-east region to meet the remarkable people preserving its handmade traditions.
Here I am on the Road Again...
Chapter 1: Why Nagaland? A Journey That Began with a Phone Call
There are journeys you plan for months.
And then, there are journeys that quietly find you.
Mine began with a simple phone call.
Back in May 2022, I was in Darjeeling, working on the initial partnerships that would eventually become Darjeeling Connection. One afternoon, my partner, Pratikchha, called me.
"There's a North-East Food Festival happening in Shillong," she said. "Since you're already in the region, why don't you go?"
It sounded like a great idea, for a guy who lives to eat. So, without giving it much thought, I packed my bag and headed to Shillong.
That little detour deserves a story of its own someday.
What I didn't realise then was that it would introduce me to some of the warmest, most talented entrepreneurs I'd ever meet. They were passionate about their craft, enthusiastic about working together, and incredibly welcoming.
We exchanged numbers.
Made plans.
Promised to stay in touch.
And then... life happened.
Months turned into a year.
Phone calls became follow-ups.
Follow-ups became reminders.
Reminders became silence.
Not because anyone had lost interest.
Simply because life in the mountains moves to a different rhythm.
Coming from Mumbai, where everything is measured in minutes, deadlines and traffic signals, I slowly realised that time has a different meaning in the hills. Conversations are longer. Meals are never rushed. Relationships matter more than calendars.
After nearly a year of trying to build partnerships over phone calls and messages, I came to one conclusion.
If Darjeeling Connection truly wanted to work with artisans, we couldn't do it from behind a screen.
We had to meet them.
Not in a hotel lobby.
Not at a trade fair.
But in their homes.
In their villages.
In the places where their stories began.
Pratikchha agreed immediately.
And just like that, our first artisan journey was born.
Destination?
Nagaland! Home to meticulous indigenous craft honed over generations. And home to a generation of young entrepreneurs who are taking their craft beyond the state's borders.
Here's my journey map :
Mumbai
Guwahati
Overnight Bus
Rain in Assam
Sunrise over Nagaland
Dimapur Hotel
First Meeting with Ikali
7th September 2023
The adventure begins.
I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into.
That, in hindsight, was probably the best part.
Having spent most of my childhood in a boarding school, I've always enjoyed every bit of adventure. So the idea of travelling deep into Nagaland alone didn't seem intimidating.
Exciting?
Absolutely!
Predictable?
Not even close.
I boarded my evening flight from Mumbai to Guwahati, landing around 7:15 p.m.
The moment I stepped out of the airport, I jumped into a cab and asked the driver to head straight for the Inter State Bus Terminus.
My sleeper bus to Dimapur was scheduled to leave at 8 p.m.
The race had begun.
Thankfully, I reached just in time...
...only to discover the bus wasn't going anywhere.
The driver hadn't arrived.
To make things even more interesting, the luxurious Volvo bus Pratikchha had booked, had apparently stopped operating on that route just a week earlier.
So much for travelling in style!
With a little unexpected free time on my hands, I grabbed a quick sandwich from a nearby stall before someone shouted,
"Bus is leaving!"
At around 8:30 p.m., we finally rolled out of Guwahati.
Outside, the rain had started.
Inside, passengers quietly settled into their seats, spitting pan; that’s when the conductor told me, "now you know why they stopped AC bus on this route😉". As the city lights slowly disappeared behind us, the rain tapped gently against the window, and for a moment I couldn't help but think of Journey's 'Don't Stop Believin'', because that's exactly what this trip was about. Believing that somewhere beyond the next few hundred kilometres were people whose stories deserved to be heard.
Sometimes journeys don't really begin when the vehicle starts moving. They begin the moment you surrender to the unknown.
Midnight Somewhere in Assam
Around midnight the bus pulled over near Nagaon–Samaguri.
The driver announced a short tea break before the long non-stop drive towards Nagaland.
Almost everyone stepped out.
Some stretched.
Some reached for tea.
Others simply enjoyed the cool night air.
I remember standing there for a few moments, looking at the line of buses parked under the yellow glow of roadside lights.
It suddenly struck me.
Tomorrow morning, I'd wake up in a state I'd never visited before.
A place I'd only seen on maps.
There's something strangely exciting about being completely unfamiliar with what's waiting ahead.
Waking Up to Nagaland
Around five in the morning, I opened my eyes.
The bus was unusually quiet.
Outside the window dawn was slowly painting the hills in shades of green.
Mist floated lazily across the valleys.
Small villages appeared and disappeared around bends in the road.
The landscape looked untouched.
Untamed.
Beautiful.
For a few minutes, nobody spoke.
Everyone seemed content simply watching the morning unfold.
That first glimpse of Nagaland is something I'll never forget.
No photograph could truly capture what it felt like.
Some places don't just impress you.
They gently invite you in.
Welcome to Nagaland
By around 6 a.m., we crossed into Nagaland and reached Dimapur.
After almost eleven hours of travelling, I finally checked into my hotel around 7 a.m.
The original plan was simple.
Take a quick shower.
Get some sleep.
Recharge for a few hours.
But excitement has a funny way of overruling sensible plans.
Because in just a little while, I was finally going to meet someone we had spoken to countless times over phone calls and messages.
Someone whose craft is proudly hosted at Darjeeling Connection.
Her name was Ikali.
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🌿 Travel Trivia
Did you know?
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Nagaland is home to 17 officially recognised major tribes, each with its own traditions, attire, dialects and customs, check out our Naga Dolls collection
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Although dozens of tribal languages are spoken across the state, English is the official language, making Nagaland one of the few Indian states where English is widely used in everyday administration and education.
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The famous Hornbill Festival, held every December near Kohima, is often called the "Festival of Festivals" because it showcases the culture, music, dances, and cuisine of nearly every Naga tribe.
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Nearly three-fourths of Nagaland is covered by forests and rolling hills, making it one of India's most scenic and biodiverse states.
📸 Behind This Photograph
One of my favourite photographs from this journey isn't of a product or a workshop.
It's the first view from the bus window that morning.
It reminds me that every meaningful partnership begins long before the first handshake.
Sometimes, it begins with a road you've never travelled before.
🎵 Mango's Road Playlist
"Every journey has a soundtrack. These are the songs that remind me of this chapter."
Next Chapter...
This was only the beginning.
In the next chapter of Journeys Behind the Craft, you'll meet Ikali, not through a product catalogue, but through her work, her story and the craft she has lovingly preserved.
I have a feeling you'll like her as much as I did.
Until the next road,
Mangesh (Mango)
Co-Founder, Darjeeling Connection